Welcome to Sophelia's Japan

A blog about adventures, academia, adoption and other things starting with the letter 'A'.
I'm a geek, a metal head, a shiba inu wrangler and a vegetarian, and I write about all of the above. You have been warned!

Smiley hikers
Showing posts with label travels. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travels. Show all posts

Friday, 2 May 2014

When I Was Mongolian (Flashback Friday)

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You may not be aware that I was, once and many years ago, Mongolian. It was just for a couple of hours in the mountains of... Gifu? Possibly Aichi or Mie but probably Gifu. See? I had a hat and everything.

I have been trying to impress on my international students the difference between gaikoku in Japanese and any translation into English. "Foreign countries" or "abroad" just don't carry the same connotations. The time I was Mongolian is a good example of the difference, I think.

A small village in remote mountains wanted to invite some foreigners to attend a festival and liven things up, so the community leaders very kindly paid for a bunch of international students (myself included) to travel into the mountains, stay at a ryokan, have a big beery party/karaoke night with them, then attend the festival the next day. There had to be some sort of purpose beyond just attending while foreign, so the solution hit upon was that we would run a Mongolian booth, selling Mongolian cookies while wearing the kind of things you can see in the picture. Our little band included Australian, American, Chinese, Korean and French students... but no one from Mongolia. At the end of the day, though, we were all gaikokujin from the gaikoku, and Mongolia is in the gaikoku, so it totally made sense. Apart from the deep awkwardness of dressing up as a nationality, the situation became even more confused when well meaning villagers asked us to teach them Mongolian words and phrases.

It was actually a lot of fun and I have fond memories of the kindness of the village leaders ("you're vegetarian and can't eat any of this food? Let's order more beer for you!"), but it remains one of the weirder things I've been asked to do.

For more articulate musings on "the gaikoku", click here and visit This Japanese Life.
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Saturday, 1 March 2014

A Cathedral in Worship of Electricity [Roll of 28 (28)]

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On our way to see a famous waterfall we saw a hand-made wooden sign with excited red lettering pointing to a waterfall we'd never heard of. It was only a little detour, so we decided to take a look.

The waterfall itself was impressive, but look at the ruins! Like an abandoned cathedral... Christianity has a long history in Kyushu (there's a statue of Francis Xavier outside the prefectural government offices), but it seemed an unlikely explanation. We climbed down to take a closer look.

Braving some fallen trees and slippery rocks, we found we could actually go inside.

I wish the photo showed how lush the green really was.
In fact, the ruins were of an old hydro-electric station, but no less beautiful for their utilitarian past.

Soy milk and sesame nabe for dinner~ perfect end to a rainy day of exploring and a goodbye to a much-missed sister.

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Friday, 28 February 2014

Hell, Latte-Cat and Dolls [Roll of 28 (24, 25, 26, 27)]

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In summery: it rained a lot, and we went sight-seeing.
The "Ocean Hell", a blue coloured hot spring
It's so hot you can boil eggs in it~ There's a basket of eggs on the end of this pole!
Japanese playgrounds are awesome
Since March was fast approaching, girls' day decorations appeared in front of shops everywhere

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Ninja Village [Roll of 28 (20, 21, 22, 23)]

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Nice view while looking for fleas
Reason #2 for the long time between photos is that my older sister came to visit so we have been busy hanging out with monkeys, ninja and playing in the snow.
Love Japan's sunny winters
We were chased by this ninja, but Tiger defeated him
Ninja horse rides
Ninja star range
Family fun
Ninja Turkey!
Take that!
It all got too much for Papa

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Tuesday, 1 October 2013

Sunday Surf (on a Tuesday)

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When I read great blog posts I usually share them on facebook, but this is a nice way to share them all together with a bit more room for commentary. Not all of these posts are from this week by the way; I have been so busy that I am pretty far behind with my reading.

Sunday Surf with Authentic Parenting and Hobo MamaI'm joining Authentic Parenting and Hobo Mama for Sunday Surf. Share your best reading of the week, and link up your post at either blog!
For more great reading, visit Hobo Mama or Authentic Parenting for the latest Sunday Surf and linky.
Happy Surfing!

Wise Words (Tim Minchin's Occasional Address at UWA)

Don't seek happiness. Happiness is like an orgasm. If you think about it too much it goes away. Keep busy and aim to make someone else happy and you might find you get some as a side effect.We didn't evolve to be constantly content. 

Adoption and Parenting

http://www.findingmagnolia.com/2013/09/some-thoughts-on-adoption-preparation.html
We had some discussion about whether or not we would have a biological child before adopting. From a health point of view, it would be better for my body to have a pregnancy before I'm thirty. On the other hand, I am so so glad we didn't. We could not give Tiger what he needs with other children in the picture, especially younger children.
I am not here to judge those who have faced very hard choices, because I know what it feels like to try to get your child to sleep for two and a half hours, while she screamed and cried and raged, every night for I-don't-even-remember-how-long, and I know that none of the pre-adoption training mentioned that possibility. I know what it feels like to be unable to do anything else for an entire day because the one thing my child needed was to be strapped on my back and taken for a very long walk outside, or else she would scream her lungs out. I honestly cannot imagine what  it would have been like to manage that if she had not been an only child at first, and had I not been able to be home with her. I know I speak from a position of privilege. But I think that privilege was something that Zinashi needed and benefitted from, and there was no way to know before we brought her home with us if she would need more intense help or not. We need to be preparing families for the possibility that their child, regardless of age at the time of adoption, might end up having some very big needs.

http://www.fineandfairblog.com/2013/09/dear-judgey-mcjudgerson.html
I share this humble as a now-reformed Judey McJudgerson. All parents I have glared at in disgust in the past: I apologise. Sincerely. And also that snarky article I once published in a local magazine about people pushing their older kids in strollers because they were too impatient to wait for the kids to walk at their own pace? Yeah, sorry about that too.
Dear Lady Judging Me At The Playground,

You seem to be reading a lot into the very tiny slice of my life that you see. You see me vacantly tapping on my phone, and are apparently filled with sadness for my children, whose lives you assume are slipping away without me noticing. (I wonder what your own kids are doing that you're missing while you sit in judgment of me?) You see my daughter twirling in the sunlight. You see my son smiling and cooing. You see me not noticing.

Would it be okay if I filled you in on some things you didn't see?

You didn't see this morning, when I greeted my waking daughter with a smile and a kiss. You didn't see when I painstakingly helped her pour her cereal and milk, then help her wipe up the spills. You didn't see me cut up her fruit. You didn't see me dance like a ballerina while doing so. You didn't see me smiling and baby talking to my son while I changed the nastiest diaper you could imagine. You didn't see me grit my teeth when he bit my breast, testing out the new teeth on the way, then sing a silly song about how we don't bite Mama.

You didn't see me do all that before I'd had even a drop of coffee.
 http://www.nohandsbutours.com/2013/09/05/dealing-with-grief/
I want to write more about this when I can. I was prepared for some feelings of loss... the loss of the lifestyle we had been enjoying and loss of some of the ideals and plans I had about family life that would necessarily be unattainable when we decided to adopt an older child. I was not prepared for what has been the biggest source of grief though, and that is the loss of the dream of the kind of parent I would be. Put simply, I guess, I thought I'd be better at it. It's hard to accept "doing the best I can" when what I want to be doing is "the very best that can be done".
But one thing that doesn’t get talked about very often is how an adoptive parent should respond when they find themselves grieving. Because…no matter how happy the adoptive parents may be or how much they love their new addition…when a new child enters the family oftentimes a part of their old life is “lost” for the adoptive family as well. Suddenly the home that made sense and ran like a well-oiled machine is thrown into chaos and confusion by things like a grieving child, orphanage behaviors, attachment struggles, processing disorders, medical needs, night terrors, or other children in the home regressing due to the addition of a new sibling. If an older child joins the family, then things like language barriers and cultural differences come into play. It can feel like the magic trick where a magician quickly pulls the tablecloth away…only you’re left wondering how and when the pieces will fall into place again.
http://www.thelostdaughters.com/2013/09/equality.html
I wrote about this case before (see this post), and I am devastated that this family has been broken apart. The idea that fathers have no automatic custodial rights is abhorrent.
As a feminist, I should make clear that I believe in the true definition of feminism … “the doctrine advocating social, political, and all other rights of women equal to those of men.” But this assumes that men have rights. 
In the case of Baby Veronica, her father did not have the rights that her birth mother did. He was misled. Birth fathers should have equal rights and protections, especially in the welfare of their children.
If a birth mother decides she cannot parent her child, and the birth father wants to raise his child, he should be given the opportunity to do so. No other adult should be given that right unless both birth parents have relinquished it.
Dusten Brown has proven that he loves his daughter. He has provided for her, cared for her, cuddled her and nurtured her for almost two years. 
Baby Veronica knows he loves her, and she wants to stay with him. Her right in all this is paramount. She deserves the love of her birth father, the man she will never forget.
http://www.patheos.com/blogs/friendlyatheist/2013/09/23/mark-joseph-stern-and-the-conversation-he-wont-have-about-circumcision/
Lets [sic] look at incentives Stern (and others) may have for wanting to avoid confronting the realities of the procedure.
Like most circumcised men, Stern probably does not want it to be true that his circumcision means that he is missing out sexually. Or that as he ages, he will likely notice diminishing sensitivity in his glans. Or that profit incentives played a role in the push to remove his erogenous tissue; or that other people altered his sexuality in a permanent way when he was still too young to do anything about it.
But the facts are what they are.
Over 50% of penile nerve endings are removed during a circumcision, including one-hundred percent of the Meissner’s Corpuscles, the unique fine touch nerve receptors found only in fingertips and on the ridged band of the penis.
Mucous membrane exposed to the air for decades does callus.
Many physicians earn sizable compensation for performing circumcisions.
And it is true that your circumcision means that someone surgically altered your body in a permanent way without first having obtained your consent.
Wouldn’t it be nice to be able to believe that all of these sacrifices were not in vain, that they bought you some greater good? It would, but we can’t just believe things because they are appealing. We can’t in good conscience marinate in denial when that means asking future generations to pay the price by allowing a harmful practice to continue to play out on their flesh.

 Society, Politics, and Japan

http://lowdownontemplevalley.blogspot.jp/2013/09/poisoned-minds.html 
This is particularly interesting for me since I wrote my first honours thesis on the politics around history textbook censorship in Japan. 
According to a recent story in the Japan Times the city’s Board of Ed has recalled a junior high school textbook due to its “descriptions of the mass lynching of Koreans following the 1923 Great Kanto Earthquake.” 

During the aftermath of that massive temblor, fear mixed with old hatreds to create a tornado of violence that swept up Yokohama’s small ethnic Korean community in a path of death and destruction. In his book, Yokohama Burning, Joshua Hammer writes that army commanders whipped up rumors about Korean well poisonings.” The lies added more fuel to the fire as vigilantes roamed the streets, hunting for human prey.
This one isn't a blog post, but it leads into one. Bear with me.
Not http://www.huffingtonpost.com/wait-but-why/generation-y-unhappy_b_3930620.html
To get to the bottom of why, we need to define what makes someone happy or unhappy in the first place. It comes down to a simple formula:


2013-09-15-Geny2.jpg
It's pretty straightforward -- when the reality of someone's life is better than they had expected, they're happy. When reality turns out to be worse than the expectations, they're unhappy.
And
Paul Harvey, a University of New Hampshire professor and GYPSY expert, has researched this, finding that Gen Y has "unrealistic expectations and a strong resistance toward accepting negative feedback," and "an inflated view of oneself." He says that "a great source of frustration for people with a strong sense of entitlement is unmet expectations. They often feel entitled to a level of respect and rewards that aren't in line with their actual ability and effort levels, and so they might not get the level of respect and rewards they are expecting."
For those hiring members of Gen Y, Harvey suggests asking the interview question, "Do you feel you are generally superior to your coworkers/classmates/etc., and if so, why?" He says that "if the candidate answers yes to the first part but struggles with the 'why,' there may be an entitlement issue. This is because entitlement perceptions are often based on an unfounded sense of superiority and deservingness. They've been led to believe, perhaps through overzealous self-esteem building exercises in their youth, that they are somehow special but often lack any real justification for this belief."
There's a lot I like about this article, but there's a lot it glosses over too. After-all, every generation  this century has bemoaned the terrible failings of the next. It isn't a new story. The following blog post gives a very nice reply:

http://iambeggingmymothernottoreadthisblog.com/2013/09/18/im-a-millenial-please-stop-being-a-douche-to-me/
I graduated in 2008. Remember 2008? Oh, right. The housing market collapsed. Global stock markets plummeted. The Great Recession happened. I had $25,000 of student loan debt and a liberal arts degree in English and Theatre.
In other words: Oh, Hey, Real World. I’m Katherine. I’m HERE! What’s that, you say? We’re all kinda fucked? Oh. Okay. Neat.
And, furthermore
I exist in a world in which I don’t understand what a 401K is all about.
Social Security will not likely exist by the time I will need it.
I will never have a pension.
I’ve never even filed for unemployment. Because as a freelancer, I’m never in one place long enough to qualify.
This is not unique to my job description.
This is unique to my generation.
I live in a world in which the teachers in the city of Philadelphia are on strike because their budget issues are so rampantly unresolved that they are returning to work without contracts, paper, or desks. I live in a world where we’re slashing budgets so that the kids of the next generation won’t know a childhood with art or music classes.
I’m a woman in a generation fighting insane battles for reproductive rights that we didn’t even know until recently that we needed to be fighting, because we had simply assumed that we had already won them.
I live in a world in which we have a black president and yet we say hateful racist shit on Twitter when an Indian-American woman takes the Miss America crown. I live in a world in which we give a fuck about Miley Cyrus.
I live in a world in which we perpetuate the unpaid intern system.
I live in a world in which, since 1979, the average American worker has seen a 75% increase in productivity, and yet wages remain flat.
I live in a world where the top 1% of earners have seen their income quadruple since that exact same year.
I live in a world that simply seems too crazy for me to handle some days. I live in a world that sometimes makes me simply want to hide under the covers and not come out until it’s fixed.
And here’s what’s super fucked up:
I live in a world in which I still believe there is hope for the future.
Speaking of the future...
http://www.kirainet.com/english/akira-predicted-the-2020-tokyo-olympics/
Akira Tokyo Olympics
Let’s hope Third World War doesn’t break out and that Akira doesn’t destroy the stadium.
 http://throwoutyourbooks.wordpress.com/2013/08/28/the-skeleton-in-the-closet/
Short version: Japan's justice system is badly badly broken. I encourage you to read the long version though, it's interesting and takes a slightly different approach to a lot of other similar articles.

This is the rather unpleasant skeleton in the closet that the police would rather keep hidden. A bygone era of intensive, frequent protest in which mistakes were made on both sides. Scapegoats and quick fixes were found, and then people were quick to move on. Injustices and false convictions happen in every justice system in the world. However, the Japanese state has a lot to lose and will only backtrack and grant retrials through firmly gritted teeth. It took mild-mannered bus driver Toshikazu Sugaya over seventeen years to win his freedom in the Ashikaga murder case of 1990. Years of campaigning to get DNA evidence re-examined were only begrudgingly acknowledged, since the prosecutors knew that then the truth might come out — that Sugaya’s “confession” had been bullied out of him. He had been an easy target: divorced and a bit of a loner. Hours of interrogation and physical abuse, and the police had their confession. It was not until 2010 that the flawed DNA evidence was accepted as proof of innocence, in spite of the fact that Sugaya’s stories of his apparent multiple crimes — made, he said, in order to assuage the duress from the police — did not concur with the witness accounts, and that he had failed to identify the sites where other purported murder victims’ bodies had been found.
Although there have been some vocal scandals recently and a few very belated victories such as the Sugaya case, the situation remains essentially unchanged. For one, Hosei University, long a site for radical student activism in Japan, has recently been suffering under the fist of the police, who would arrive and pick out the activists they had already pre-planned to arrest. Campaigners say that over 100 have been unlawfully arrested in the last few years.
In the country of the blind, the one-eyed man is king. In the country of no crime, the police and judiciary rule supreme. Heaven help you if you get arrested.

 Travel and Adventure

We all have friends we live vicariously through, right? I am currently living out an eighteen-year-old-me fantasy through the travels of an ex-JET friend. You can read the background to his current adventures at
http://joshwalden.blogspot.jp/2013/07/introduction-to-gepaq.html
We set out with torn out pages from a Rand-McNally map of the USA (pre-smart phone days!), tents and sleeping bags on our bicycles, as well as big packs of Clif bars and 2-3 changes of clothes.  Around an hour before sunset each night, we'd start eying homes for nice yards.  We'd knock on their doors and ask if we could set up a tent, that we'd be out in the morning.  Every night after setting up our tents we'd sip on some homemade whisky from a mason jar we'd received in Kentucky and plan the next day.
Five years later I want to have that feeling again.

Milan Kundera has this amazing book called "The Unbearable Lightness of Being."  The main gist is that we feel free and light in certain points in our lives .. free from the gravity of our decisions... but this lightness is unbearable.  We have a need for something heavy, something dark to anchor us to the world.  That is why lightness is unbearable. 
and some more at
http://joshwalden.blogspot.jp/2013/09/gepaq-6-uh-what-are-you-going-to-do.html
A: So, what are you studying?
B: French language.
A: Oh, that's cool. (Awkward pause, look around the room, shuffles feet) Uh,what are you going to do with that?

I am pretty sure that dialogue is repeated approximately every 18 seconds on every American campus. It's trite. Anyhow, three years out of college I found an appropriate response to this commonplace: “I am going to travel the world, learn a ton of languages, drink my weight in local beers and eat amazing food, meet beautiful people and make lifelong friends. Et toi?” 
Plans for after college.  Makin' ya proud mom!
I've had a few friends and relatives ask me about how I am doing it, how I am financing the trip, other practical details. I was working on a farm in Poland and talking with my friend Craig from England (Hi Craig!) as we cleaned the goat stalls. He said a lot of his friends back home had this real wonder about how he was able to travel, have these experiences. He gets the vibe from them that it is this unattainable opportunity, this secret skill that he has.

Well, we both agreed that it was baloney!
 http://shamozal.blogspot.jp/2013/09/louise-sassy-and-yorgenorgen-women-at.html
The low down on international schools from a veteran traveling mum
The Australian School

Your friends will be called Cheryl and Angela. You will drive badly because you are on the wrong side of the road. You will need a big enough back seat for the esky and the keg of beer. When you drop your child off at school you'll hear someone yell out  "Hey, bloody sit still while I tie your shoelaces back up will ya?" There is no embassy, you will create your own informal embassy in the tuck shop which now has a bar. It's highly possible a few bottles of champagne will make their way to the PTA coffee morning and the participants will need to catch the bus home with the kids at the end of the day. The school is littered with pictures of Opera Houses, Kangaroos and Aboriginal art. All fundraising will involve a keg of beer and a sausage sizzle.
http://thisjapaneselife.org/2013/08/22/1772/ 
A lot to think about re the orphanage business in Nepal and tourist volunteerism
The central force behind all profitability is supply and demand, and child exploitation isn’t an exception.
Nobody would buy an “I Heart Nepal” T-shirt knowingly produced by an exploited child, and likewise, neither should we buy the “product” of begging children.
This sounds, and feels, inhuman. We want to do the right thing, we want to help the orphanages. We feel good when we fundraise from friends and family, when we connect with children and use our wealth to improve their lives. We want to soothe our conscience by putting money into the hand of a begging child.
This feeling of doing the right thing, however, through the force of a dark human ingenuity, is precisely the illusion that child begging rings are selling.
When we hand 500 rupees to a child with a sick baby in her arms, these guys profit, and then reinvest. They recruit more kids, and earn more profit.

And Now For Something Completely Different

Love My Neighbor Totoro and Death Metal, but unsure how to enjoy both at once? This age old dilemma has finally been solved!
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Wednesday, 13 March 2013

Charity Cycling, Foundation 18, and Bloggers Matter

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Pre-Ride Yoga, 2010 Ride, Day 2
 This weekend is the 16th Annual Oita AJET Charity Bike Ride, a big event on the Kyushu ex-pat calendar. Both foreigners of a dozen nationalities and Japanese participants travel from all over the country to take part (eight different prefectures are being represented this year). Riders and volunteers fund-raise throughout the two-day, two-prefecture-long ride. In the past the ride has supported tsunami victims in Japan and raised enough in one ride to build a primary school in Sri Lanka through Room to Read. This year the ride is supporting Foundation 18, a charity whose primary focus is an orphanage (with a second soon to be built) in Indonesia. Foundation 18 is providing a culturally appropriate upbringing for the girls in its care (rarer than you might think) and also has a range of other activities in the broader community including helping women escape from human trafficking and caring for elderly people without families.
If you would like to support Foundation 18 you can donate as little or as much as you like via paypal here. If you donate after reading this, please write Oita Charity Bike Ride in the donation comments and leave a comment here too so we can include you in our tally ;) If you want to help out Foundation 18 and also love buttons, check out SkullButtonry. The profits from this lovely Etsy shop all go to Foundation 18. International shipping is reasonable (I bought a bunch myself).

So why do bloggers matter? Well, this is a very small blog and it really doesn’t matter. However, being an occasionally lonely ex-pat some time ago I searched for other Australian ex-pat blogs and found the wonderful 4 kids, 20 suitcases and a beagle. One day Kirsty posted about the also wonderful Edenland, so I followed the link and started reading that blog as well. Eden blogs from time to time about Cate Bolt, Foundation 18 and SkullButtonry. It was as a result of all these loosely connected events that I was able to suggest Foundation 18 to the Oita AJET committee as a charity to consider supporting with this year’s bike ride. So in summary, a charity in Indonesia run by an Australian is being supported by a bunch of people from all over the world cycling through Japan as a result of a chain of blog posts beginning in Doha. 

Bloggers matter.

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Tuesday, 8 January 2013

River Pool on Silent Hill

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Rothbart and the Toad King
For a couple of years now I’ve driven past a road sign pointing to a river pool, with a picture of someone swimming. Every time I saw it I imagined a deep still rock pool, or possible natural rock slides under waterfalls like the ones I grew up swimming in. I had a rare couple of hours free the other day, so on the spur of the moment I turned off and headed down the highway to the pool. It felt like a mistake very quickly.
Burned out abandoned ute? CHECK.
The signs quickly pointed me off the highway and down a narrow winding dirt road through the mountains. The speed limit was 30 kmph but every now and again a huge truck rumbled by in a cloud of dust at 80 or 90, overtaking me on a road barely wide enough for a regular car but somehow not plunging off the edge into the ravine. I was fearful of the surface and dark rainclouds began to close it. I started having flashbacks to a traumatic experience when we tried to dive to a campsite high in the mountains and got stuck on an impossibly narrow winding road with a sheer cliff on one side and forest on the other. I felt like I might get stuck in the same situation, but I decided to give it another ten minutes before turning back, and just as the time was up I saw a sign for the pool.
Rather than the rock pool I had imagined, it was more like a regular outdoor swimming pool beside the river, although on closer inspection it seemed that the water would feed in from the river when the pool was open.
The river
Promises of fun
but no fun to be had
The combination of remote mountain location and complete silence except for the crows somehow made the bright colours and dry shower heads seem sinister.
I pulled google maps up on my phone to see if there I could keep going and come out the other side of the mountain rather than going back the terrifying way I had come, and lo and behold it turned out that the road I was on climbed the mountain and joined with the very same frightening track we’d got into trouble on looking for the campsite. The way back was scary, but nothing on the danger of continuing into the forest! I turned around and rode home.
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Saturday, 13 October 2012

Miyazaki Adventures

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We took a spontaneous trip last weekend. We can do that now that we have a car. Having a car is seriously awesome. We headed to Miyazaki prefecture for a one night and visited the Takachiho gorge and the near-by cave at Amano-Iwato shirine that features in Japan’s foundational mythology.
Preparing nice and early for that up-coming right hand turn! Oh, and yes, that is Vader's TIE bomber displayed... it also speaks in his (officially licensed) voice. He gets very grumpy when you deviate from the dark side.
Driving pretty much anywhere in Kyushu results in gorgeous scenery
Especially when the rice is ripe for harvest and the sunlight is golden
Takachiho is stunning. The rock formation is caused by layers of lava from a volcanic eruption, and the water is clear up close but brilliant blue from a distance.
Obligatory tourist shot of row boats in Takachiho Gorge
Clear, sparkling water in a shallower section
Takachiho from above
At the gorge we got caught in a tourist trap and ripped off 500 yen; not a huge amount of money but a bit of a shock to experience. We drove to the gorge on the Saturday of a long weekend, and it was packed with cars and tour coaches. There were uniformed traffic guides at all the turns, separating small from large vehicles and directing them to different car parks. As we came into the clearly marked entrance to the car park we had been directed to a man in a visibility vest holding a traffic directing baton leapt in front of the car and directed us to turn left. We followed his instructions and pulled into a small private car park, upon which he charged us 500 yen. It was so sudden that we paid up and only realised as walked away from the car that the car park we had been heading into was free, and the man’s “uniform” was purchased from a hardware store. I was pretty angry about it, but my more forgiving husband forbade me from making a scene. Spoil sport.
Nagashi somen near the gorge: usually this is a special summer thing but for some reason it is offered all year round at the gorge. You try to catch chilled noodles with your chop sticks are they flow down the halved bamboo.
If that isn't to your taste, try dango (grilled sticky rice balls) are fish so fresh that their friends are still in the tank nearby looking for them :(
We opted for delicious hot tea from a bamboo pot

Takachiho Shrine: 600 year old cedar trees surround the shrine
I have never seen one of these with babies before~ I would love to know the significance (if any)
While the gorge was beautiful, the real highlight was Amano-Iwato. It was less touristy, wilder, and held a sense of real power and emotion even for a cynical atheist like me.

Looked a lot like Tasmania, actually.
The stones are piled by pilgrims

As I said, the trip was unplanned so we hadn’t booked any accommodation. That isn’t an issue in Japan, since there are always rooms available in love hotels and car parking is included free of charge. I used the handy love hotel finder website www.love-hotels.jp on my phone and found one nearby that would allow is to take a room from 8pm (overnight stays are usually only permitted after 11pm, any earlier and you pay an per hour rate not a fixed fee). We’ve visited a number of love hotels (that’s a whole other blog post), but this one was by far my favourite.
View from our love hotel jacuzzi
Our “room” was a newly-built free-standing two story unit that was three times bigger than the entire apartment I rented in Nagoya. From 8 pm to 11 am was 6000 yen, about $60, and the “room” was equipped with: a theatre room with massage chairs, a huge projection screen and karaoke, a spa overlooking the beach, a microwave, ice box and kettle, a king sized bed, brand name amenities (Dove body lotion etc) and a pokie machine. If you find yourself in the vicinity of Nobeoka I recommend Uno Hamayu. I took a cider from the fridge so when we left the next morning a staff member dropped by so I could pay for it. She was wearing the kind of apron that kindergarten teachers or child care workers wear, and I wonder if she goes straight to work at a nearby pre-school after finishing her love hotel shift.
Parking is not only free, but also discreet
Theatre room with karaoke and massage chairs
Second TV in the bedroom, also with karaoke, and a gambling machine



AND just in case there weren't enough TVs, the bath also had one
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