Welcome to Sophelia's Japan

A blog about adventures, academia, adoption and other things starting with the letter 'A'.
I'm a geek, a metal head, a shiba inu wrangler and a vegetarian, and I write about all of the above. You have been warned!

Smiley hikers

Tuesday, 8 January 2013

River Pool on Silent Hill

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Rothbart and the Toad King
For a couple of years now I’ve driven past a road sign pointing to a river pool, with a picture of someone swimming. Every time I saw it I imagined a deep still rock pool, or possible natural rock slides under waterfalls like the ones I grew up swimming in. I had a rare couple of hours free the other day, so on the spur of the moment I turned off and headed down the highway to the pool. It felt like a mistake very quickly.
Burned out abandoned ute? CHECK.
The signs quickly pointed me off the highway and down a narrow winding dirt road through the mountains. The speed limit was 30 kmph but every now and again a huge truck rumbled by in a cloud of dust at 80 or 90, overtaking me on a road barely wide enough for a regular car but somehow not plunging off the edge into the ravine. I was fearful of the surface and dark rainclouds began to close it. I started having flashbacks to a traumatic experience when we tried to dive to a campsite high in the mountains and got stuck on an impossibly narrow winding road with a sheer cliff on one side and forest on the other. I felt like I might get stuck in the same situation, but I decided to give it another ten minutes before turning back, and just as the time was up I saw a sign for the pool.
Rather than the rock pool I had imagined, it was more like a regular outdoor swimming pool beside the river, although on closer inspection it seemed that the water would feed in from the river when the pool was open.
The river
Promises of fun
but no fun to be had
The combination of remote mountain location and complete silence except for the crows somehow made the bright colours and dry shower heads seem sinister.
I pulled google maps up on my phone to see if there I could keep going and come out the other side of the mountain rather than going back the terrifying way I had come, and lo and behold it turned out that the road I was on climbed the mountain and joined with the very same frightening track we’d got into trouble on looking for the campsite. The way back was scary, but nothing on the danger of continuing into the forest! I turned around and rode home.
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Monday, 7 January 2013

Separation Anxiety and the New Term

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Everyone needs a friend
Hayate has struggled with severe separation anxiety for most of his life. Before getting a dog I thought separation anxiety just meant being stressed about being alone; when I began looking for help for Hayate I read about dogs so frantic to find their person that they threw themselves off fourth story balconies or burst through glass doors. Anxiety is an understatement; it’s more like a panic attack that last all day. In our old apartment Hayate destroyed the walls and doors of his room trying to chew and dig his way out. We left a microphone recording during the day so we could see how he’d been and the result was pitiful: eight hours of crying, whining and howling. Eventually we decided to risk letting both dogs lose together in the apartment, and Hayate calmed down. Then we put him through a horrible August. We moved house, and the day after we moved the Mr went to Tokyo for driving school and was gone close to a month. Hayate plunged back into distress, but he bounced back quickly. As I mentioned in a previous post, he devised his own strategy for coping and now runs upstairs and hides on the bed when he sees me heading to the door. Given how many humans haven’t mastered to art of removing themselves from emotionally challenging situations, I’m incredibly proud of him.
Today we went back to work after a two week vacation during which we barely left the house. The dogs spent their days contentedly moving from sun spot to sun spot and snoring.

The dogs knew what was happening this morning (they recognise that on days the alarm goes off we go to work), and they took it well. I fear that by Friday they won’t be as calm though. Last term Hayate tried every day to keep me at home, licking my hand, circling around my legs and fetching toys and giving them to me hopefully, as though I couldn’t possibly leave if I just realised how awesomely fun wriggly snake was. It was simultaneously adorable and pathetic.  
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Saturday, 5 January 2013

Adoption in Japan Part 1: Why are there so many kids in orphanages?

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Before the tsunami, there were more than 36,000 children in “orphanages” in Japan. Around 3,000 of them were housed in 乳児院 (nyujiin: infant nurseries, usually for children under two years old). The overwhelming majority of these children are not orphans in the sense of having no living guardian. Nor have they been removed from their parents’ custody. The majority have living parents who retain legal custody but who are not raising them. In some cases children are housed in orphanages temporarily. In other cases, they will remain in institutions from birth until adulthood, never meeting their parents. Because parents maintain legal rights to the children, they are unable to be adopted. The emphasis on maintaining legal custody for biological parents is so strong that even in cases where a baby is found abandoned in a train station locker or in a park, the local courts may rule that the baby is unavailable for adoption just in case the biological parent ever comes looking for them. In other cases a family member other than the parent is the legal guardian but does not want to be responsible for giving the child up for adoption, despite not wanting to have anything to do with them. 

Both for the families of children in orphanages and for society at large, there is no resistance to the idea that children grow up in institutions. For most people I have talked to, it seems like “the right place” for “nobody’s children” to be taken care of. Some 乳児院 send photos to the birth parents and entreat them to take the babies home for special events like the child’s birthday or New Year’s celebrations. Their aim is to eventually reunite the biological family. At the 乳児院 I volunteer at, some parents visit their children every weekend, trying to maintain contact despite the circumstances that prevent them from caring for them full time. Others drop in sporadically and shower the kids with presents and affection, then don’t come back for months. Others promise to come then don’t, leaving the children waiting in their best clothes beside the door, waiting for it to open, hour after hour. No one seems to question the idea that reuniting biological families is the best outcome, even when we read about cases where children are killed after being reclaimed from orphanages by their parents. In one heartbreaking case, an eleven year old girl was beaten to death by her mother with a golf club after spending many years in an orphanage. News reports dwelled on the tragic letter the little girl had written to her mother telling her how much she loved her while in care. I saw something very different in that letter~ well meaning staff encouraging her to write to her mother to facilitate a reunion regardless of the documented history of abuse.

Even in cases of serious, documented abuse it is very difficult to forcibly sever parental rights. One of the reasons volunteers are asked not to share pictures taken in orphanages is that children may be in hiding from abusive parents. The state can remove children and place them in orphanages, but if the biological parents find out where they are they can just walk in and drag them home. In some cases parents have laid in wait near school gates and abducted their children as they leave. Because the legal custody has not been severed there is little anyone can do.  There is also little awareness of child abuse as a social issue.  A 1996 article quotes Tsuzura Masako, then head of the Tokyo child welfare office, denying over the course of several years that child abuse existed; despite her own office taking hundreds of calls a year relating to child abuse. Her exact words: “Child abuse? There is no such thing. Parents hitting their own kids is just a temporary thing. It’s just discipline.” Abuse is unlikely to make it to court until it becomes fatal, and even then penalties are light. The infamous Heki-chan case of 2006, in which parents tortured their three year old using a variety of implements over many hours until his death, resulted in a seven year jail sentence for the father and six and a half years for the mother. In my prefecture a woman who buried her two year old daughter in the woods then claimed she had been abducted from a supermarket car park was given a two year suspended sentence for dumping the body but was not prosecuted for killed the child, because by the time her body was discovered she was “too badly decomposed to determine cause of death.”

I want to emphasise that my experiences in orphanages have been nothing but positive. The many staff I know personally are committed to doing the very best they can for the kids in their care. However, the care given to the children in orphanages is utterly insufficient to prepare them for participation in society even in the best case scenario. At the same time, not every orphanage is a best case scenario.  There are also serious problems with abuse in orphanages themselves.  Many of Japan’s orphanages are privately managed, including many operated by Catholic churches. Some private orphanages are treated like family businesses, with the director passing the position on to their son or daughter when they retire.  In the 1990s a number of cases of sexual abuse in privately operated homes resulted in no action being taken because the perpetrator was the child of the director and heir apparent to the “business”. In one case, after an employee reported the sexual abuse of a twelve year old girl to the child welfare office, the director of the orphanage took a voluntary two month pay cut. This was considered an appropriate response and no criminal proceeding were pursued, nor was the perpetrator prevented from continuing to work in orphanages. Technically the private institutions are under the supervision of the government, but as with all government positions in Japan staff are transferred in and out of the supervisory positions without any specific training. When they go to “inspect” the orphanages they have no idea what they are looking at, and may simply visit, drink tea in the director’s office, then leave.
Even without facing abuse, institutions just aren’t appropriate places for children to grow up.

“A little boy had been brought over from the baby orphanage to join the 3-to-18-year-olds’ orphanage. This is the way the system is set up here. Suddenly uprooted from the only home he had known, he was plopped down into a big building full of older boys. Though I had just walked into the room and he was seeing me for the first time, he clung to me for all he was worth and would not be comforted. I’ve rarely witnessed anything as pitiful.”

The social worker who is working with us through our adoption application suggested that we should try to take the child to the supermarket and involve them in cooking meals as much as possible, because they may be used to prepared food being delivered in a dining hall and have no mental association between fresh ingredients and prepared food. For a child in that situation, imagine the shock of suddenly being thrust out into the world to fend for him or her self?

In Japan school is compulsory only until junior high. Although 90% of students attend high school (high school graduation is require for almost all jobs), the figure is inverted for children who live in orphanages. One reason for this is that in order to pass high school entrance examinations Japanese children usually attend cram schools, the cost of which can run into hundreds of thousands of dollars. The government does not provide any money for orphans to attend cram schools, because that would mean they would have to admit that the system exists. The official line is that public education provides everything children need to pass their exams, and although it is blatantly untrue and no one believes it for a second, the educational futures of orphans are sacrificed to maintain the meaningless charade. One of the most helpful things university student volunteers do in orphanages is offer free tutoring. 

Even if a child survives their orphanage upbringing with few emotional scars and a passable education, they may face lifelong discrimination in employment, housing and marriage. Yet, despite all this, adoption or even foster care remains rare. In a country with an aging population, declining birth rate and reluctance to accept immigration as a solution to its demographic crisis, one would think that domestic adoption would be encouraged. In practice, a combination of social attitudes and specific government policies discourage adoption. 

References:
“Adoption in Japan” by Peter Hayes and Toshie Habu, 2006, Routledge
“Children of the Japanese State” by Roger Goodman, 2000, Oxford
“Becoming aware of child abuse” by Meiko Hashimoto in Japan Quarterly; Apr/Jun 1996
“Why Nobody Knows - Family and Society in Modern Japan” by Alexander Jacoby in Film Criticism; winter 2011; 35, 2/3
“Child abuse and neglect in Japan” by Yasuhide Nakamura in Pediatrics International; 2002, 44
“Child Welfare Services in Japan: An Overview” by Cecelia Sudia in Children Today; Mar 1988; 17, 2
“Fatal child abuse in Japan: Does a trend exist toward tougher sentencing?” by Saori Nambu, Ayako Nasu, Shigeru Nishimura, Akiyoshi Nishimura and Satoshi Fujiwara in Japan Injury and Violence Research, 2011 Jul; 3, 2
“Health education for nurses in Japan to combat child abuse” by Beverly M. Henry, Reiko Ueda, Masaki Shinjo and Chieko Yoshikawa in Nursing and Health Sciences, 2003, 5
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Bushfires in Tasmania

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Evacuees on the beaches: photo by Kate Butterworth and published by the ABC
I spent yesterday periodically checking the news to see where the fires were burning in my home state, Tasmania. Bushfires are part of life in Australia, but yesterday was something else. When I was a kid if the summer temperatures got to 30 ºC it would be on the evening news. Yesterday was 41.3 degrees Celsius - the highest temperature in 120 years of record keeping.
This image belongs to the ABC and can be seen in context here
The fires have destroyed whole swathes of towns. People were evacuating to beaches and waiting to be rescued by boats, cut off from any overland roads. It's hard being away when your home is in trouble, but so far there are no confirmed reports of lives lost. The reason I'm writing about it is that this is the first disaster to hit Tassie since the rise of social media, and the way everyone has been using facebook and twitter to offer and organise help is fantastic. All day yesterday I was re-sharing offers of help, many for the animals who will suffer terribly from the fires. When horrible things happen we often see the best of our communities in the outpouring of generosity that follows, and social media means that even from the other side of the world I get to feel that love.

If you are in Tasmania please consider sharing this information to help animals in need:
The Royal Agricultural Society of Tasmania is offering free accommodation for all animals effected by the fires, in their stable complex at Hobart Showground. Free camping is also available to anyone accompanying animals or from one of the effected areas. People requiring this can contact Scott Woodham on 0400574654 prior to arriving.
Kingston Animal Hospital
The Principal Vet of the Kingston Animal Hospital (Dr Chris Lee) is offering to examine and destroy any animals from the Forcett fire at no cost over this weekend. Could as many people as possible please share this so animals are not left to suffer.
North Hobart Veterinary Hospital has available cat accommodation, at no charge, for people who have been displaced by the fires and cannot find suitable accommodation for their cats.

Please contact us on 0439 347 023. The hospital is currently closed but a staff member will arrange to meet you at the hospital to organise a bed for your cat.
Other:  AHVEC is able to help with injured or displaced wildlife and domestic pets. We are open all night and weekend. Please don't hesitate to call 0427 025073.
To assist people trying to call with EMERGENCIES in Forcett for injured animals the direct number to the vet is 0408 371 383. We have a vet ready with a fully equipped vehicle to attend the scene as soon as authorities allow us in.
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Friday, 4 January 2013

Kappa and the Samurai’s Grave

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Decorations in Kappabashi-dori
My favourite yokai is without a doubt the kappa (although I am partial to the umbrella spirit  傘お化け too). One day when this came up in class, a co-worker asked if I was aware that there are kappa in the river behind our school. The students expressed some disbelief, and she reminded them about the grave stone. There was a general chorus of “ooooh, yeah” and “that’s right!” Afterwards I asked the teacher about it and she told me the story of a local samurai whose death at the hands of kappa is commemorated with a monument near the river bank.
The samurai grew vegetables, and one day he noticed some eggplants (aubergines) had grown with a pattern in their skin that resembled the daimyo’s family crest. He was excited at the idea of presenting the ripe eggplants to the daimyo and wondered what sort of reward or good fortune might come his way as a result. He carefully tended to the young eggplants, but one morning he found that one had been taken. The next night he laid a trap and waited in ambush. A kappa swam up out of the river and came into the garden, taking another eggplant. The samurai leapt out and killed him. The next day the samurai was summoned to meet with the daimyo. As he hastened down the road the kappa's three sons bared his way and demanded that, having killed their father, he must duel one of them. In a rush to get to the daimyo to samurai refused, promising to discuss the matter with them on his return, and rushed away. The incensed young kappa vowed vengeance. They gathered all the kappa of the river and laid an ambush. When the samurai returned from his meeting with the daimyo the kappa leapt out and slaughtered him.
Although in this story it was an eggplant, traditionally kappa are meant to like cucumbers. So, obviously, I thought eating a cucumber near a stream might be a good way to find some. Sadly it didn't work.
I was very excited to see the grave stone, but although everyone vaguely knew the story no one seemed to really know where it was. I got a map from the library that had historical sites marked, but like most Japanese sightseeing maps there was no consistent scale and no minor roads marked. I rode down the little side street I thought it might be, between scary old houses that looked abandoned but had very angry sounding dogs chained in the yards, and ended up at an old temple. I could see an overgrown graveyard through the trees so I decided to go in and look for the grave. The bell tower was crumbling away and I was afraid that it might collapse as I walked under it, but being crushed to death by a giant Buddhist bell in the middle of an abandoned temple while looking for a monument to a samurai killed by kappa seemed like a suitably dramatic way to go, so I walked through the gate anyway.

Someone was obviously coming in to care for the graves, but the same could not be said of the temple itself. Vines were growing all over it, through the windows, and monkeys seemed to have moved in. I couldn't find the right grave stone and it started to rain, so I gave up.

I walked into a classroom, gave a student a bit of paper and said "draw a kappa"... no questions asked she whipped this up for me in two minutes.
The next time I visited that school a student came to tell me where the grave was (a few steps from her house, actually). Word of my quest had gotten around. She told me that it had been overgrown and surrounded by trees, but recently it had "きれいになった" (been cleaned up). I found it easily following her directions but was disappointed to find that "cleaned up" meant covered in concrete as part of the construction of a cul de sac housing development. Ahh, Japan. Despite the lack of suitable atmosphere I was very happy to have finally found it.

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Seasonal Sake Bottles

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Sakura rosé for spring, with sakura flowers in the bottle
Goldfish and fireworks for summer
Rabbits, mochi, the moon and red maple leaves for autumn
Snow bunnies, berries and snow fakes for winter

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Tuesday, 1 January 2013

Cleaning / お掃除

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These double as drinking fountains too o.0
“Honestly? Japanese schools are filthy.” I never said it, but that is the first thing that came to mind every time I was asked what most surprised me about Japanese schools (a question I got asked on an almost daily basis during my first year as an ALT). As a culture, the Japanese value cleanliness very highly. “Clean” and “beautiful” are the same word. Despite the absence of rubbish bins, the streets are usually free of litter (except on Ishigaki Island). Schools, on the other hand… I’d eat something off the side of the road before I’d eat something I dropped into a classroom floor. Dust bunnies twirl in a slow-motion waltz through the staff room. When I go into the toilets I try to hold my breath until I leave again. Public schools have no cleaning staff. All cleaning is done by teachers and students during the school day (refer to the time table I posted here). All that is used for cleaning is brooms, rags and cold water. Not especially surprisingly, the kids spend the allotted cleaning period half-heartedly swatting the same dust bunny with a broom and gossiping until the chime rings.

As with most tasks at school, they simply have to “clean” for the required period of time rather than achieve any particular outcome. There is no evaluation of the result, only the process (given some of the teachers I have met over the years, I assume this also applies to teachers: As long as they stand in front of the blackboard for a couple of hours a day they’re sweet; how much the kids learn is irrelevant).

These cleaning rags were hand made by parents
Even if the kids with the rags and water do go all out cleaning, it’s just water. Splashing water on something then wiping it off again is not the same as cleaning it. Even if one of the little kids pees on the floor, the same old rag and cold water are used to wipe it up (did I mention that there are no gloves?). The kids wipe up the pee bare handed, with rags. Then rinse them in a bucket of icy water. Then continue wiping the rest of the floor with the same water and rags. The toilets get hosed down, which for Japanese style toilets (the majority in public schools) means the bowl overflows and the water from inside washes out onto the floors. In summer the kids on toilet duty splash around in this water to cool their feet. The toilet cleaners do get rubber gloves for cleaning inside the toilet bowls, but no detergent or disinfectants. Perhaps this combination of unsanitary schools and kids who are expected to come to class no matter how infectious they are is how Japanese adults get such amazing immune systems.
Read more about Japanese toilets here
In practice, then, 掃除 is a total failure. In theory though, I think it has a lot going for it. It teaches kids to be responsible for their own mess. They can’t just throw rubbish on the floor and assume that someone else will clean it up for them. It teaches them to take pride in their school and appreciate the effort that goes into maintaining shared spaces (if only share-house residents had the same values!). It makes cleaning a part of daily life, not something to be looked down on as menial labour fit only for the underclass. The somewhat sad thing is that few of the teachers I work with express anything positive about cleaning when talking to their students. The issue of students cleaning comes up quite often, either in lessons about Australia or just in response to questions the students ask me.
Can you spot the broom? So small and ineffectual I bet you didn't notice it first glance!
Invariably on hearing that Australian schools have cleaners, the teacher will say to the kids: “Wouldn’t that be nice! But Japanese schools have no money, so it can’t be helped.” It is of course true that Japanese (public) schools are massively under-funded (Japan spends less on its schools than any other OECD country). But that isn’t the only reason for お掃除. Once, recently, I was talking to a JHS vice principal and some other teachers during cleaning time in the staff room. The VP said the usual “no money” line, but one teacher hesitantly said “’cleaning time is time for beautifying the heart’… I guess that’s an old fashioned belief.” Another teacher laughed at her (she has a reputation for being strict and old fashioned) and no one disagreed with the “old fashioned” comment. Still, even if it was just once in four years and no students were there to hear it, I’m glad someone sees something to お掃除 other than child slave labour.
***They really need to get mops and some bleach though, seriously, it’s disgusting.***
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