Welcome to Sophelia's Japan

A blog about adventures, academia, adoption and other things starting with the letter 'A'.
I'm a geek, a metal head, a shiba inu wrangler and a vegetarian, and I write about all of the above. You have been warned!

Smiley hikers

Sunday, 13 January 2013

Driving in Japan is Scary

7 comments:
Does anyone know what is going on in this intersection?
 Driving in Japan is scary for two main reasons. First, more Japanese drivers than not are absolutely oblivious to the potential consequences of dangerous driving. Second, there is little to no enforcement of the traffic rules. Australians like to wax lyrical about speed cameras being "revenue raisers" and nothing to do with saving lives. I generally accepted that before coming here, and seeing what roads without police patrols and speed cameras (or even scarier, red light cameras) look like. In Australia the nightly news keeps a running "road toll" that is announced whenever a new fatality occurs. The annual toll in my state would, I am guessing, be approximately the monthly toll in the city I now live in. In 25 years in Australia I never personally witnessed a road fatality. In four years in Japan I've seen three. I know that personal anecdote isn't statistically significant, but it definitely affects how safe I feel. Speed + unskilled drivers = dead people.

I took this photo because the grass around the driving course was on fire, but it didn't really come out
When I say that drivers are unskilled, I'm not just reflecting on my own observations. A majority of the driving time required before taking a license test in Japan is completed in a closed course like the one pictured above. [Edit: apparently this is completely untrue, the Mr says it's only about 1/4 of the time.] Maps of the course are obtainable, the obstacles are in the same place every time, and there is no other traffic to cope with. There is a requirement for on-road driving, but it is 31 hours (for an automatic car, 34 hours for a manual). That's it. My husband attended an intensive driving school for fourteen days before getting a Japanese license (from scratch; he didn't have an Australian license). That's two weeks from the first time ever sitting behind the wheel to being out driving a station wagon across a mountain pass in a typhoon (that's another story). That in itself is scary (the husband disagrees; he says that new drivers are scared and careful and it is the experienced drivers who have lost their fear who are the dangerous ones).
This takes a bit of getting used to... my heart still leaps into my mouth sometimes as I drive under the red light.
Then there's the lack of awareness that road rules exist to stop people from dying. Everyone here speeds. Not only do they speed, but they become consumed with road rage if you don't speed. I have some sympathy for them, because the speed limits are stupidly low (40 kmph through most built up areas, which means most high ways, since Japan is densely populated, and 50 on the "open road"). However, the cultural acceptance of speeding seems divorced from any understanding of speed as a factor in fatalities. Particularly when kids on bicycles so often swerve out into the road, the concept of "stopping distance" is a really important one. Marshmallow Sensei wrote about the lack of reference to death in a drink driving seminar and I encourage you to read the whole thing; I notice this disconnect between driving and the potential for fatality every time I talk to someone about driving.

Yes, this is a kid's bike with a baby seat. In case that isn't terrifying enough, notice that there is only ONE helmet.

The guy in blue isn't crossing the road on his bicycle, he is swerving all over this busy highway (frequented by road haul trucks) in front of an elementary school at 1pm because he is drunk and on his way back from buying some extra booze to keep him going for the evening. I imagine this is a familiar sight in this neighbourhood.
Marshmallow Sensei writes:
The thing is the stats are what bother me, because in the talk I received on the matter the focus was certainly not on lives lost, but the punishment and damage to the driver. The fines paid, the loss of your job because you can’t drive, your family leaving you because you can’t support them anymore. Little mention of the victims involved beyond the driver.
The idea that a car is potentially a weapon doesn't get much currency here. On the rare occasion that someone does get busted breaking a road rule, in my experience they without fail describe it as a result of bad luck, not their own transgression. The conversation goes like this:
"I got a traffic fine."
"Oh, what happened?"
"I was unlucky."
"Yeah... what did you DO?"
"Oh, I was exceeding the speed limit by 20 kmph while talking on my cell phone."
"That's pretty bad..."
"Yes, very bad luck."

Running red lights, ignoring stop signs and driving the wrong way down one way streets are all done without batting an eye-lid. A member of my naginata club once said that she had been pulled over going the wrong way down a one way street. The police officer had let her off with a warning but she was deeply affronted that he had even pulled her over because "everyone drives down that street." The other club members chimed in with agreement. Apparently to get to the opposite end of the street without breaking the law requires driving for an extra five minutes, which is entirely unreasonable. The police officer was totally out of line, they all agreed.

It is this disregard for life and law that makes Japanese drivers so scary: they drive as though there is no one else on the road. Screaming U-turns across five lanes of traffic. No indicators (Americans say blinker, right?). Parking on the highway using the "park anywhere lights" (hazard lights) and leaving the car unattended to go shopping, forcing everyone to swerve into oncoming traffic to go around you. Driving down the centre line between two lanes. These behaviours are scary, but when you are on two wheels they are even scarier.

Because drivers rarely give way, this hardware store has hired a guy to stand at the exit. When  car needs to get out of the car park, he hits the pedestrian crossing button for them. It's literally the only way to make the rest of the traffic let them in. And yes, that is a real, full-time job. Reason #367 why Japan's unemployment rate is low.
I think the most frightening moment of my life occurred just down the road from my house. I was riding at about 5 kmph over the speed limit, but the woman behind me was throwing a fit at my lack of speed, honking her horn, riding so close I thought she was actually going to ram me, and gesticulating at me to pull over. As we approached a crossing for the local elementary school I saw that although the light had changed some kids and the crossing guard were still on the road. I slowed down, and seeing her chance the woman floored her accelerator and screamed around to overtake me on the crossing with the children on it. I had to pull over and wait to stop shaking before I could keep driving. No one was hurt. But they so easily could have been, and she didn't think twice about it.


But that's a downer to end a post on, so here's a random road video. What starts out as a sunny morning with clear blue skies can become this within the space of two hours:
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Friday, 11 January 2013

Politically Correct Textbooks?

3 comments:
Look how inclusive we are! Just don't tell anyone that kids in wheelchairs actually have to go to special schools...

J-sensei, have you seen the new English text book? The illustration for “doctor” is a woman and for “nursery school teacher” is a man. There’s a character in a wheelchair, an African American girl and an Indian boy.

Yes, it’s very modern.

Do the textbooks for other subjects have these kind of illustrations, or is it only English?

No no, lately all Japanese textbooks are becoming “PC”. They show many different kinds of people. Japan is really changing.

Well, there are foreign characters but there is still no mention of the Ainu or Ryuku or Zainichi or any Burakumin characters.

*Silence*

*Silence*

That kind of thing is too difficult for a foreigner like you to understand.

*He turns away from me and begins furiously typing on his computer, ignoring me for the rest of the day.*
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Tuesday, 8 January 2013

River Pool on Silent Hill

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Rothbart and the Toad King
For a couple of years now I’ve driven past a road sign pointing to a river pool, with a picture of someone swimming. Every time I saw it I imagined a deep still rock pool, or possible natural rock slides under waterfalls like the ones I grew up swimming in. I had a rare couple of hours free the other day, so on the spur of the moment I turned off and headed down the highway to the pool. It felt like a mistake very quickly.
Burned out abandoned ute? CHECK.
The signs quickly pointed me off the highway and down a narrow winding dirt road through the mountains. The speed limit was 30 kmph but every now and again a huge truck rumbled by in a cloud of dust at 80 or 90, overtaking me on a road barely wide enough for a regular car but somehow not plunging off the edge into the ravine. I was fearful of the surface and dark rainclouds began to close it. I started having flashbacks to a traumatic experience when we tried to dive to a campsite high in the mountains and got stuck on an impossibly narrow winding road with a sheer cliff on one side and forest on the other. I felt like I might get stuck in the same situation, but I decided to give it another ten minutes before turning back, and just as the time was up I saw a sign for the pool.
Rather than the rock pool I had imagined, it was more like a regular outdoor swimming pool beside the river, although on closer inspection it seemed that the water would feed in from the river when the pool was open.
The river
Promises of fun
but no fun to be had
The combination of remote mountain location and complete silence except for the crows somehow made the bright colours and dry shower heads seem sinister.
I pulled google maps up on my phone to see if there I could keep going and come out the other side of the mountain rather than going back the terrifying way I had come, and lo and behold it turned out that the road I was on climbed the mountain and joined with the very same frightening track we’d got into trouble on looking for the campsite. The way back was scary, but nothing on the danger of continuing into the forest! I turned around and rode home.
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Monday, 7 January 2013

Separation Anxiety and the New Term

3 comments:

Everyone needs a friend
Hayate has struggled with severe separation anxiety for most of his life. Before getting a dog I thought separation anxiety just meant being stressed about being alone; when I began looking for help for Hayate I read about dogs so frantic to find their person that they threw themselves off fourth story balconies or burst through glass doors. Anxiety is an understatement; it’s more like a panic attack that last all day. In our old apartment Hayate destroyed the walls and doors of his room trying to chew and dig his way out. We left a microphone recording during the day so we could see how he’d been and the result was pitiful: eight hours of crying, whining and howling. Eventually we decided to risk letting both dogs lose together in the apartment, and Hayate calmed down. Then we put him through a horrible August. We moved house, and the day after we moved the Mr went to Tokyo for driving school and was gone close to a month. Hayate plunged back into distress, but he bounced back quickly. As I mentioned in a previous post, he devised his own strategy for coping and now runs upstairs and hides on the bed when he sees me heading to the door. Given how many humans haven’t mastered to art of removing themselves from emotionally challenging situations, I’m incredibly proud of him.
Today we went back to work after a two week vacation during which we barely left the house. The dogs spent their days contentedly moving from sun spot to sun spot and snoring.

The dogs knew what was happening this morning (they recognise that on days the alarm goes off we go to work), and they took it well. I fear that by Friday they won’t be as calm though. Last term Hayate tried every day to keep me at home, licking my hand, circling around my legs and fetching toys and giving them to me hopefully, as though I couldn’t possibly leave if I just realised how awesomely fun wriggly snake was. It was simultaneously adorable and pathetic.  
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Saturday, 5 January 2013

Adoption in Japan Part 1: Why are there so many kids in orphanages?

21 comments:


Before the tsunami, there were more than 36,000 children in “orphanages” in Japan. Around 3,000 of them were housed in 乳児院 (nyujiin: infant nurseries, usually for children under two years old). The overwhelming majority of these children are not orphans in the sense of having no living guardian. Nor have they been removed from their parents’ custody. The majority have living parents who retain legal custody but who are not raising them. In some cases children are housed in orphanages temporarily. In other cases, they will remain in institutions from birth until adulthood, never meeting their parents. Because parents maintain legal rights to the children, they are unable to be adopted. The emphasis on maintaining legal custody for biological parents is so strong that even in cases where a baby is found abandoned in a train station locker or in a park, the local courts may rule that the baby is unavailable for adoption just in case the biological parent ever comes looking for them. In other cases a family member other than the parent is the legal guardian but does not want to be responsible for giving the child up for adoption, despite not wanting to have anything to do with them. 

Both for the families of children in orphanages and for society at large, there is no resistance to the idea that children grow up in institutions. For most people I have talked to, it seems like “the right place” for “nobody’s children” to be taken care of. Some 乳児院 send photos to the birth parents and entreat them to take the babies home for special events like the child’s birthday or New Year’s celebrations. Their aim is to eventually reunite the biological family. At the 乳児院 I volunteer at, some parents visit their children every weekend, trying to maintain contact despite the circumstances that prevent them from caring for them full time. Others drop in sporadically and shower the kids with presents and affection, then don’t come back for months. Others promise to come then don’t, leaving the children waiting in their best clothes beside the door, waiting for it to open, hour after hour. No one seems to question the idea that reuniting biological families is the best outcome, even when we read about cases where children are killed after being reclaimed from orphanages by their parents. In one heartbreaking case, an eleven year old girl was beaten to death by her mother with a golf club after spending many years in an orphanage. News reports dwelled on the tragic letter the little girl had written to her mother telling her how much she loved her while in care. I saw something very different in that letter~ well meaning staff encouraging her to write to her mother to facilitate a reunion regardless of the documented history of abuse.

Even in cases of serious, documented abuse it is very difficult to forcibly sever parental rights. One of the reasons volunteers are asked not to share pictures taken in orphanages is that children may be in hiding from abusive parents. The state can remove children and place them in orphanages, but if the biological parents find out where they are they can just walk in and drag them home. In some cases parents have laid in wait near school gates and abducted their children as they leave. Because the legal custody has not been severed there is little anyone can do.  There is also little awareness of child abuse as a social issue.  A 1996 article quotes Tsuzura Masako, then head of the Tokyo child welfare office, denying over the course of several years that child abuse existed; despite her own office taking hundreds of calls a year relating to child abuse. Her exact words: “Child abuse? There is no such thing. Parents hitting their own kids is just a temporary thing. It’s just discipline.” Abuse is unlikely to make it to court until it becomes fatal, and even then penalties are light. The infamous Heki-chan case of 2006, in which parents tortured their three year old using a variety of implements over many hours until his death, resulted in a seven year jail sentence for the father and six and a half years for the mother. In my prefecture a woman who buried her two year old daughter in the woods then claimed she had been abducted from a supermarket car park was given a two year suspended sentence for dumping the body but was not prosecuted for killed the child, because by the time her body was discovered she was “too badly decomposed to determine cause of death.”

I want to emphasise that my experiences in orphanages have been nothing but positive. The many staff I know personally are committed to doing the very best they can for the kids in their care. However, the care given to the children in orphanages is utterly insufficient to prepare them for participation in society even in the best case scenario. At the same time, not every orphanage is a best case scenario.  There are also serious problems with abuse in orphanages themselves.  Many of Japan’s orphanages are privately managed, including many operated by Catholic churches. Some private orphanages are treated like family businesses, with the director passing the position on to their son or daughter when they retire.  In the 1990s a number of cases of sexual abuse in privately operated homes resulted in no action being taken because the perpetrator was the child of the director and heir apparent to the “business”. In one case, after an employee reported the sexual abuse of a twelve year old girl to the child welfare office, the director of the orphanage took a voluntary two month pay cut. This was considered an appropriate response and no criminal proceeding were pursued, nor was the perpetrator prevented from continuing to work in orphanages. Technically the private institutions are under the supervision of the government, but as with all government positions in Japan staff are transferred in and out of the supervisory positions without any specific training. When they go to “inspect” the orphanages they have no idea what they are looking at, and may simply visit, drink tea in the director’s office, then leave.
Even without facing abuse, institutions just aren’t appropriate places for children to grow up.

“A little boy had been brought over from the baby orphanage to join the 3-to-18-year-olds’ orphanage. This is the way the system is set up here. Suddenly uprooted from the only home he had known, he was plopped down into a big building full of older boys. Though I had just walked into the room and he was seeing me for the first time, he clung to me for all he was worth and would not be comforted. I’ve rarely witnessed anything as pitiful.”

The social worker who is working with us through our adoption application suggested that we should try to take the child to the supermarket and involve them in cooking meals as much as possible, because they may be used to prepared food being delivered in a dining hall and have no mental association between fresh ingredients and prepared food. For a child in that situation, imagine the shock of suddenly being thrust out into the world to fend for him or her self?

In Japan school is compulsory only until junior high. Although 90% of students attend high school (high school graduation is require for almost all jobs), the figure is inverted for children who live in orphanages. One reason for this is that in order to pass high school entrance examinations Japanese children usually attend cram schools, the cost of which can run into hundreds of thousands of dollars. The government does not provide any money for orphans to attend cram schools, because that would mean they would have to admit that the system exists. The official line is that public education provides everything children need to pass their exams, and although it is blatantly untrue and no one believes it for a second, the educational futures of orphans are sacrificed to maintain the meaningless charade. One of the most helpful things university student volunteers do in orphanages is offer free tutoring. 

Even if a child survives their orphanage upbringing with few emotional scars and a passable education, they may face lifelong discrimination in employment, housing and marriage. Yet, despite all this, adoption or even foster care remains rare. In a country with an aging population, declining birth rate and reluctance to accept immigration as a solution to its demographic crisis, one would think that domestic adoption would be encouraged. In practice, a combination of social attitudes and specific government policies discourage adoption. 

References:
“Adoption in Japan” by Peter Hayes and Toshie Habu, 2006, Routledge
“Children of the Japanese State” by Roger Goodman, 2000, Oxford
“Becoming aware of child abuse” by Meiko Hashimoto in Japan Quarterly; Apr/Jun 1996
“Why Nobody Knows - Family and Society in Modern Japan” by Alexander Jacoby in Film Criticism; winter 2011; 35, 2/3
“Child abuse and neglect in Japan” by Yasuhide Nakamura in Pediatrics International; 2002, 44
“Child Welfare Services in Japan: An Overview” by Cecelia Sudia in Children Today; Mar 1988; 17, 2
“Fatal child abuse in Japan: Does a trend exist toward tougher sentencing?” by Saori Nambu, Ayako Nasu, Shigeru Nishimura, Akiyoshi Nishimura and Satoshi Fujiwara in Japan Injury and Violence Research, 2011 Jul; 3, 2
“Health education for nurses in Japan to combat child abuse” by Beverly M. Henry, Reiko Ueda, Masaki Shinjo and Chieko Yoshikawa in Nursing and Health Sciences, 2003, 5
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Bushfires in Tasmania

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Evacuees on the beaches: photo by Kate Butterworth and published by the ABC
I spent yesterday periodically checking the news to see where the fires were burning in my home state, Tasmania. Bushfires are part of life in Australia, but yesterday was something else. When I was a kid if the summer temperatures got to 30 ºC it would be on the evening news. Yesterday was 41.3 degrees Celsius - the highest temperature in 120 years of record keeping.
This image belongs to the ABC and can be seen in context here
The fires have destroyed whole swathes of towns. People were evacuating to beaches and waiting to be rescued by boats, cut off from any overland roads. It's hard being away when your home is in trouble, but so far there are no confirmed reports of lives lost. The reason I'm writing about it is that this is the first disaster to hit Tassie since the rise of social media, and the way everyone has been using facebook and twitter to offer and organise help is fantastic. All day yesterday I was re-sharing offers of help, many for the animals who will suffer terribly from the fires. When horrible things happen we often see the best of our communities in the outpouring of generosity that follows, and social media means that even from the other side of the world I get to feel that love.

If you are in Tasmania please consider sharing this information to help animals in need:
The Royal Agricultural Society of Tasmania is offering free accommodation for all animals effected by the fires, in their stable complex at Hobart Showground. Free camping is also available to anyone accompanying animals or from one of the effected areas. People requiring this can contact Scott Woodham on 0400574654 prior to arriving.
Kingston Animal Hospital
The Principal Vet of the Kingston Animal Hospital (Dr Chris Lee) is offering to examine and destroy any animals from the Forcett fire at no cost over this weekend. Could as many people as possible please share this so animals are not left to suffer.
North Hobart Veterinary Hospital has available cat accommodation, at no charge, for people who have been displaced by the fires and cannot find suitable accommodation for their cats.

Please contact us on 0439 347 023. The hospital is currently closed but a staff member will arrange to meet you at the hospital to organise a bed for your cat.
Other:  AHVEC is able to help with injured or displaced wildlife and domestic pets. We are open all night and weekend. Please don't hesitate to call 0427 025073.
To assist people trying to call with EMERGENCIES in Forcett for injured animals the direct number to the vet is 0408 371 383. We have a vet ready with a fully equipped vehicle to attend the scene as soon as authorities allow us in.
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